Facing our fear of heights for wine, views, and a little magic in Porto
Today’s adventure took Scott and I across one of the most iconic landmarks in Porto — the Ponte Luís I Bridge — and into the heart of the Port District, where cobblestone streets, hillside wineries, and riverfront charm awaited.
Crossing the Ponte Luís I Bridge
Our day began with a walk toward the famous bridge that connects Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia, home to the region’s historic port houses. Let me just say… this bridge is not for the faint of heart! It’s incredibly high, with trams zipping by as you make your way across. I did my best to avoid looking down — though I’m sure the views were breathtaking (at least that’s what everyone says!).
Then there was this couple in front of us, walking as slow as molasses! Between trying not to get hit by a tram and keeping my eyes straight ahead, I was pretty relieved when we finally made it to the other side.
Down to the Waterfront
Once we crossed, we took a winding side road that led us down to the waterfront district of Vila Nova de Gaia. The area is full of energy — boutique shops, wine cellars, local markets, and plenty of restaurants spilling out onto the promenade. We also discovered that there is a lower level on the bridge, that is much less scary to walk across, which we took on our way back.
We could have bi-passed the stairs and taken the Gaia cable car, but no thank you. But before we could explore too much, we had an appointment at 10:30 a.m. for our tour at Cockburn’s Port Lodge (pronounced “Coburn’s,” in case you’re wondering).
A Port Wine Experience at Cockburn’s
Getting to Cockburn’s Port House was no easy feat — it was a steep hike up the hill, winding through narrow cobblestone streets lined with old buildings and glimpses of the river below. By the time we reached the top, we were ready for a glass of wine (or three!). The moment we stepped inside, we were greeted by a beautiful, light-filled lobby filled with historic artifacts, old bottles, and displays that immediately set the tone for what was to come.
Our tour began right there in the lobby, where our guide shared the story of Cockburn’s and how the brand became one of the most recognized names in port. We then watched a short introductory movie that gave us a look into the winery’s long history and family roots before moving deeper into the cellars.
As we entered the main production area, we were stunned by the sheer scale of the operation. Cockburn’s is known as the largest working port lodge in Porto, and it certainly felt that way — massive oak barrels lined the cool, dimly lit cellars, each one aging port that would someday make its way around the world. Along the way, our guide explained why the winery is located in Porto rather than near the vineyards — the cooler coastal climate here allows the wine to mature more slowly and develop deeper, richer flavors.
We also stopped at the cooperage, where they still maintain the age-old tradition of crafting and repairing wooden casks by hand. It was fascinating to see the craftsmanship and precision that goes into every barrel.
Our tour ended in the elegant tasting room, where we enjoyed the 75-euro experience we had reserved in advance. For that, we were treated to an exclusive lineup of three exceptional vintage ports — Quinta dos Canais Vintage Port, Vintage 2007, and Vintage 2017 — each one richer and more complex than the last. The tasting was beautifully paired with a selection of local cheeses, creating the perfect balance of sweet and savory flavors. It was a luxurious and memorable way to cap off our visit to one of Porto’s most historic wineries.
Ramos Pinto and the Riverfront Markets
Afterward, we wandered further along the waterfront and decided to stop at another port house — Ramos Pinto. We sampled two white wines, two tino reds and three Port wines there, but honestly, the wines were just okay. The setting was lovely, though, and it was still fun to compare the styles between producers.
The waterfront itself was lively, with markets, street musicians, and plenty of outdoor cafés. It’s the kind of place where you could spend hours people-watching and sipping wine by the river.
Lunch at Pestana Vintage Porto
Eventually, we decided to head back across the lower level of the Ponte Luís I Bridge and return to the Porto side for lunch. We stopped at Pestana Vintage Porto, a charming spot right along the riverfront, and grabbed a quick sandwich to refuel.
A Missed Stop at the Harry Potter Bookstore
After lunch, we made our way uphill again toward the Livraria Lello, often called the “Harry Potter Bookstore” because of its magical architecture and connection to J.K. Rowling’s time in Porto. Unfortunately, it requires advance reservations, which I didn’t realize — so we had to admire it from the outside. Lesson learned for next time!
However, not all was lost, as we stumbled upon another gorgeous church Igreja do Carmo. We were able to climb a very narrow staircase up three floors, which was an apartment at one time for the priest.
Finally Trying Sardines
After a long day of wine tasting, we relaxed in our suite before dinner. If you recall, we bought sardines and octopus in Lisbon at one of the infamous Sardine shops. This was Scott’s first time having either and we must say, they were delicious! Unfortunately, we can’t find this quality of sardines in the states.
Dinner and Reflections
We wrapped up the day with dinner back at our hotel, Hotel Teatro, where we kept things simple with some delicious pasta and wine. It was the perfect way to unwind after a long day of exploring hills, bridges, and cellars.
The next day, we head back to Lisbon for our final day in Portugal — so stay tuned for the last vlog of this adventure!
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Cheers, Scott and Ally
