Visiting Poulsbo, a Quaint Scandinavian Town
Last weekend, Scott and I headed over to Poulsbo for a quick overnight stay. We planned the trip at the last minute when our friends, Ben and Maria, asked us to join them. Checking the weather forecast two days earlier, NOAA was forecasting high winds combined with extreme tides for Saturday and Sunday. I was tempted to cancel the trip, but decided we would leave each morning before the winds picked up. With a high tide of +12′ and a low tide of -3.5′,
Neither Scott or I had ever been to Poulsbo before and had heard great things about the city. Getting there by boat from Elliott Bay Marina takes about an hour. There are two ways to get to Poulsbo around Bainbridge Island. You can travel south, through Rich Pass with the Seattle-Bremerton Ferry or you can travel north through Agate Pass. We chose the northern passage through Agate Pass.
We left Elliott Bay Marina around 9am before the predicted winds and we arrived at 10am.
The winds were at 14mph from the north and it was a bumpy ride across Elliott Bay. A few times the bow slammed down (all cupboards emptied out) and salt water sprayed us good. The trip across the bay took us about 30 minutes and I was ready to get out of that chop.
Once we passed Port Madison on our left, we saw Agate Pass and the bridge. The seas were much calmer and pleasant. We had been told that the current under the bridge would be swift, but honestly with our boat going 19 mph, unlike Deception Pass, it was a breeze. Our friends told us to keep to our port side as we crossed under the bridge as there is a fish farm on the right side and it’s much more shallow. We rounded Point Bolin and approached Key Port Point, where the US Naval Museum is located.
Liberty Bay & Docking
Once we rounded Key Port Point, we entered Liberty Bay. It’s lined with beautiful houses on each shore. There is a no wake zone once you reach the first marina. The Poulsbo marina is the one farthest north. I was surprised as to how many boats were anchored in the bay. With the wind and the current we were trying hard to maneuver around each of them.
We were assigned to the E Dock Slip #15, which is only a 30′ slip. Because the fairways are so wide, they allow boats to overhang. Since we are 34′, we had to dock stern in, port side so we could get off the boat easily. Remember, we have only docked stern in once at our own dock and I was on the dock. Now we have 14mph winds and a wicked current in the marina – this should be fun! (Too bad we forgot the GoPro).
Our first and second attempts both failed (I love how all of the boaters just watched us and never offered any assistance). Third attempt, the dockmaster showed and I threw him the lines, but I missed him. Grrrrrrr. Fourth attempt failed and on the fifth attempt, I hooked the cleat and threw him the lines. Here’s the catch though. The winds were slamming the boat up against the dock and SLAM, SCREECH – we hit “something”. We quickly tied off the boat and assessed the damage.
Luckily it’s only a surface scar, but a bad one! The boat hit the SHARP METAL CORNER of the piling frame. Why it’s not bumpered like ours at Elliott Bay Marina, I don’t know. Especially with the strong currents. We still have epoxy from the haul out repair, so we will fix it in the next week or two.
Little Norway
Poulsbo is a quaint town full of great shops & restaurants. It has a Scandinavian heritage and Poulsbo is the nickname for “Little Norway”. There is a small heritage museum at the visitor’s center that tells the history of the town and the marine industry.
Our friends, Ben & Maria were coming down from Everett and we had reserved a dock together using the DockWa app. This is a great app to make quick marina reservations. Last year we traveled to Gig Harbor with Ben & Maria, but weren’t able to stay at the same marina. They have been to Poulsbo many times and it is one of their favorite destinations.
The four of us checked into the marina and they gave us a welcome bag with all kins of brochures, coasters, stickers and coupons. They do offer free Wi-Fi and free pumpout too! Wow! Of course we forgot to use any of our coupons at the restaurants.
Downtown Poulsbo & The Farmer’s Market
Downtown Poulsbo is lined with shops and restaurants. Be sure to watch Episode #15 on YouTube for a full tour. The Farmer’s market runs from 9am to 2pm, so we headed up (yes UP the steep hill) to the market right after we checked in. The farmer’s market is located in the library parking lot up on the hill about 4 blocks away from the marina. It is a bit smaller than most, but they had all kinds of vegetables, gifts, breads, seeds, clothing and much more. I found all kinds of gifts and so I started my holiday shopping early.
From the Farmer’s Market, we headed back down the hill to explore downtown Poulsbo. They have a famous bakery, Sluy’s, that always has a line out front. People couldn’t stop talking about Sluy’s, but the line was too long for us. LOL. Next time.
Scott and I checked out the visitor’s center and the heritage museum. It’s really just an small area in the office that has some memorabilia and historical facts about the town. It is really interesting, so be sure to check it out.
Scott and I had lunch at The Brass Kraken Pub overlooking the marina. The bartender was super friendly and the food / drinks were outstanding! My bloody mary came with a complete meal on top (pepperoni, cheese, green bean, olive & more) AND a mini beer!
Low Tide
Low tide was at 1:42pm and it was so low that we only had about 2′ below our hull. The fuel dock was tilting due to the low tide. Suddenly, this 58′ Meridian came down the fairway to fuel up, only to realize the fuel dock was closed and he was now in 2′ of muddy water! Ironically this boat is from Elliott Bay Marina. Let’s hope he didn’t suck up a bunch of mud into his engines. We had lots of small crabs walking below our boat too. It was really a pretty cool sight.
To get a better perspective on how low the tide was, check out this photo of Ben & Maria. Notice the pilings are about 15′ high. Plus they were covered in mussels!
Now check out this photo during high tide – Ben is resting his arm on it! Crazy!
Still wanting to explore a bit more, Scott and I were going to walk the beach. That was until we saw a kid get his leg sucked in by the sand/mud. No thanks….so we just walked the boardwalk which was shaded by trees. It’s about a 1/4 mile long and loops you back into the town.
Those are our two boats together on the second dock.
After our walk, the four of us relaxed on the dock, soaking up the sun and drinking cocktails. The afternoon was full of stories & laughter, bringing some of us to tears! That’s what I call a great time!
Ben and Scott helped dock numerous boats as it was still windy. Again, I still can’t get over how many people watched us struggle and never lent a hand. To me, it just good etiquette to help a fellow boater.
Good Friends, Great Wine & Beautiful Sunset
For dinner, we headed to “That’s a Some Italian Restaurant” right across from the marina. Our server was funny and the food was good. Note to self – if you plan on bringing home your pizza, make sure it fits in the tiny fridge. LOL
We wrapped up the night, with great wine, a sunset, live music from Brass Kraken and a friendly harbor seal.
It was one of the best times we have had! Ben and I went to high school together and when we bought our boat, he gave us a lot of tips and advice. It was great hanging out with them and we can’t wait to do it again!
Heading Home
Sunday morning we had a slight change in the weather and the 22mph winds were reduced to only 9mph starting around 9am. Scott and I grabbed a quick breakfast at the Green Diner and then headed out. After hitting the piling when we docked, I asked the dock master to help us push off.
The winds were still coming from the north, which helped us going home. Instead of getting wet, it was a nice and pleasant trip. We still had white caps on Elliott Bay, but we were not slamming down.
The funniest thing we saw on our way home was this barge carrying a giant cow. At first we thought we were seeing things! Turns out it’s Bessie on the Barge is for June’s Dairy Month. She went thru the Ballard Locks and had visitors. https://www.facebook.com/events/170350046969151/.
The irony of our trip, was docking back at Elliott Bay Marina. We literally pulled into the slip, hooked the cleat and tied off in 10 seconds. Why doesn’t that happen all of the time?
Our boat Kokomo was covered in salt water and we spent a few hours on Sunday cleaning it. The next thing on our list will be to repair the gel coat.
When we left the marina, it was once again low tide! It was the craziest thing I have ever seen at Elliott Bay. Folks were standing where there is usually only water.
Be sure to watch the full tour in Episode #15 on our YouTube channel below:
Next Sunday, my family from Camano Island is seeing the boat for the first time and we’re headed out for a ride on the bay. Stay tuned for our next blog!
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This was a really neat statue, dedicated to Sri Chinmoy, a dreamer of World Peace.
