On Day 4, Scott and I planned an excursion up to Sintra. Sintra is known for its castles, palaces, and lush gardens that are tucked into the hills, making it one of the most popular day trips from Lisbon. It also happens to the the spot where the waiter at the Flamingo Restaurant in Cascais recognized where the photo of my mom was taken in the 60’s.
Planning Ahead for Sintra
Before our trip, I did my homework and quickly learned that Sintra requires planning. The three most popular attractions—Pena Palace, the Castle of the Moors, and Quinta da Regaleira—sell out quickly. I used Tiqets to reserve our passes in advance, as everyone strongly advises booking early. Another tip I discovered: when visiting Pena Palace, you must be at the palace entrance exactly at your assigned time to be allowed in. Since the palace sits above the village, you’ll need at least 30 minutes to get there either on foot or by shuttle. And even with tickets, expect delays—sometimes an hour or more.
Armed with that knowledge, we left Lisbon bright and early from Rossio Train Station for the 40-minute ride to Sintra. About 15 minutes into our ride, I decided to download our tickets—only to discover they had all been cancelled and refunded due to a forest fire watch in the National Park. Talk about a bummer!
A Morning in Sintra
We arrived in Sintra around 9:30am, determined to make the most of it. The walk to central Sintra took about 25 minutes. Immediately we could see how charming the town was.
As we walked into the heart of the town, we came across the National Palace of Sintra and the historic Café Paris. This stop held a special memory for me: I had a photo of my mom in front of Café Paris, and I was able to recreate it with myself standing in the exact same spot. Such a cool and sentimental moment.
Café Paris has been a staple since 1945 and looks much the same today. Since we were already at the cafe, we decided to enjoy some breakfast and mimosas. Fun fact: when you order an omelet or a ham and cheese, each comes out on its own separate platter—a quirky little detail that made us smile.
Exploring the National Palace of Sintra
While we weren’t able to tour Pena Palace, Castelo de São Jorge, or Quinta da Regaleira, we did have the opportunity to explore the National Palace of Sintra, one of Portugal’s most important historic sites. Located in the heart of Sintra’s old town, this palace dates back to the early Middle Ages and was a favorite residence for Portuguese royalty for nearly eight centuries. Its origins trace to the Moorish period, but much of what visitors see today was expanded under King João I and King Manuel I during the 15th and 16th centuries.
The National Palace is instantly recognizable for its twin white conical chimneys, which rise dramatically above the skyline — remnants of the massive palace kitchens below. Inside, each room showcases a different era of Portugal’s royal past, from the Manueline-style tilework (some of the oldest azulejos in the country) to intricately carved wooden ceilings and richly decorated chambers. The Swan Room, with its painted ceiling of swans symbolizing loyalty, and the Magpie Room, adorned with birds representing court gossip, are among the most famous highlights.
Touring the palace offers a fascinating glimpse into the luxurious yet complex lives of Portugal’s monarchs. From the grand halls to the private chambers, every space reveals a story of power, artistry, and daily life during the height of Portugal’s Age of Discovery. I’ll be including plenty of photos of the ornate rooms, decorative tiles, and architectural details — they truly capture the unique character of this remarkable palace.
The people back then must have been so short! Check out Scott standing next to one.
Shopping in Sintra
The shops in Sintra were charming, though the shopkeepers were very strict about no photos or videos—to the point of being a little grumpy about it! By noon, we were back at the train station, cooling off with a cold drink before our return ride to Lisbon. As we were walking back to the train station we were inundated with Tourists walking towards us. Best time to visit Sintra would be first thing in the morning to avoid the crowds.
Back in Lisbon
With unexpected free time, we decided to explore more of Lisbon. Since it was Sunday, we headed to the National Pantheon, which is usually closed on Mondays. Getting there was a workout—the walk is steep and straight uphill—but it was absolutely worth it. There were lots of options of getting around including electric cars and tuk tuks, but we walked every where we went. Scott and I also chose to forego the Santa Justa Elevator and instead chose to walk.
Lisbon’s Pantheon
The Pantheon, originally a church, is one of Lisbon’s most important monuments. Construction began in the late 16th century, but it wasn’t completed until the 20th century! Inside, it serves as the burial place for some of Portugal’s most iconic figures, including presidents, writers, and fado singers. The white marble interior is stunning, and the rooftop terrace offers incredible panoramic views of Lisbon.
Wrapping up our Sintra Day
After touring the Pantheon, we decided to check out one more miradouro in Lisbon. This one was a bit smaller, but the views were still pretty amazing.
One cool thing about European cities is how old the buildings are and the fact that city planners keep their facades. It’s what gives these century old cities character. We grabbed a quick snack after our tour of the Pantheon before heading back to the hotel.
Dinner in Alfama
Scott and I wrapped up the day with dinner at Solar de Alfama, a cozy and welcoming spot where the food and service were simply amazing.
After dinner we wandered the alleyways and had one final night cap at the Crafty Corner bar (soon to become our nightly stop). It was the perfect ending to a day that started off with a hiccup but turned into another memorable adventure in Portugal.
Coming Up Next…
In our next blog, we’ll share more of our time exploring Lisbon—including an evening sailing along the Tagus River. Stay tuned for more Portuguese adventures! As always, thank you for following our journey! Be sure to subscribe to our blog and our YouTube Channel (link below) and also on social @BoatingJourney #BoatingJourney.
Cheers, Scott and Ally
